tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post1248066417996431762..comments2024-02-26T02:14:38.494-08:00Comments on Axe Connected: Notes on Ax Head Geometry -- part 2 of the article "In Search of an Ax for 'The World Made by Hand'"Peter Vidohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13443265056422774632noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-34264210374828575842016-12-12T07:09:24.499-08:002016-12-12T07:09:24.499-08:00Very interesting review and research about the sha...Very interesting review and research about the shape, use and reasoning. My question is what sort of shape then would be for a throwing axe then? Would a Flat-sided axe be preferred? How would a tomahawk fit in?Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11502352255443516429noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-80391242678781316972016-02-17T14:36:06.878-08:002016-02-17T14:36:06.878-08:00I disliked the fiskars I tried. Very forward bala...I disliked the fiskars I tried. Very forward balance and awkward feeling.SkillCulthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02492656746164230098noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-37648739569961597482016-02-13T13:04:19.240-08:002016-02-13T13:04:19.240-08:00'fraid there are a million shapes in axe histo...'fraid there are a million shapes in axe history, in profile and in cross section.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14427684848519822634noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-5554188657951193992014-11-15T07:31:35.399-08:002014-11-15T07:31:35.399-08:00Reasons of durability suggest that it is one of th...Reasons of durability suggest that it is one of the two latter options; along with the greater potential for binding in hardwood demanding a shorter convex area to the bevel.<br /><br />Much of the internet discussion surrounding axe geometry is pure speculation taken from competition axes. None of the people involved have a fraction of the knowledge of someone like Dudley Cook, and as far as I can tell there is no discussion of the different angles for hardwood and softwood blades. He does, however, mention that it is the mid-blade hollow which prevents binding. This would indicate that a shortened bevel for the hardwood axe is due to that wood's propensity to bind within a shorter area. Hardwood is tighter grained and has much more spring, so this only makes sense in terms of the physics involved.<br /><br />It should also be mentioned that the high-centreline is something of a misnomer as it is used here in the blog. Cook also mentions how most new axes are too thick in the middle of the bit and along the edge (although this may be due to him being from Maine where a thinner axe is more useful). Really the high-centreline has to do with the wobble of the axe as the physical centre of the axe when rounding is not in the geometric centre, it is somewhere in the third towards the toe of the axe. This can be seen here:<br />http://lh5.ggpht.com/-jUtfsS2cFkA/Uim7YQq--pI/AAAAAAAALBA/UO1I0Hi_8vk/2_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800<br /><br />An important question would be then, given the shorter and wider blades of hardwood axes, how much of this bulge in the high-centreline occurs only due to the necessity of offsetting that length, width, and thickness? With a heavier axe that is proportionately shorter, thicker, and wider it would have to have a more pronounced bulge to make the axe aerodynamic in its physical rounding.<br /><br />Here we can see why the European axes with their bearded shape are also more flat. This is precisely because the Hudson Bay pattern or the Euro/Rockaway pattern of the Gransfors axes have less weight around the eye and poll due to their overall geometry. There is less to compensate for with a bearded axe since much of the mass is already in the top-third of the axe. As the eye and poll is dropped down to create a heavier American axe the top-third mass must be compensated for to prevent wobble, hence the very apparent bulge.<br /><br />Still very interesting research, but I suspect that two aspects of axe geometry have been confused in their true purpose.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-47113251316224537962014-11-15T07:30:36.440-08:002014-11-15T07:30:36.440-08:00Also found this letter from a competitive axe user...Also found this letter from a competitive axe user interesting:<br /><br />"The first inch or so of the axe back from the edge creates the displacement force (and durability for a work axe). Racing axes run 14 degree angle for good pine...felling axes could start at 18 degrees and up to 28 degrees for a limbing axe. But the angle isn't the only thing...the length of the chisel plays a big role too. Take a pencil and draw an 18 degree angle on paper. At one inch from the apex it measures .3" gap, (distance between the lines) at 2 inches= .6" at 3 inches =.9" so that is how much volume of wood needs to be displaced at each interval of depth of penetration. So, if we stop the wedge shape at one inch from the edge (.3" displaced area) then relieve it somewhat with some hollowing out or change of wedge angle we can overcome some friction and displacement force to allow more penetration. Most good hardwood axes have a thick chisel wedge (18 degrees +) but narrow chisel (half inch or less) then hollowed out a bit. If the axe goes in deep enough the "bust" or swelling of the axe back closer to the eye will once again displace the chip with more force this time to blow out the chip. "<br /><br />http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1145433-Ax-Grinds-letter<br /><br />Basically, all things being equal, the hardwood axe has a steeper bevel, a 'thick chisel wedge', but a shorter chisel or convexing. And the softwood axe has a thin chisel wedge and longer chisel or convexing.<br /><br />His experience is with racing axes, but he suggests that it is the convexing which causes the axe to bind. I would have to suspect that this means too convex of a high-centreline could also cause binding (apart from limiting penetration).<br /><br />He also suggests that much of preventing a stuck axe comes down to skill, how deep you can cut, how accurately, and how much of the edge hits the tree causing it to bust or at least spring back from becoming unstuck. A very slight angle difference would mean the force of the axe is focused on a smaller area causing it to stick.<br /><br />As well, this article on grinding suggests that the proper convex is close to flat, like the Gransfors:<br />http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/sharpeningaxes.php#secondarybevel<br /><br />This would again suggest that the Gransfors cuts too deep due to its shallow and longer chisel/convex rather than lacking an extreme high-centreline (which can limit cutting ability anyway.<br /><br />Mors Kochanski, the most knowledgeable bushcrafter in regards to axes and a former competitive axeman, suggests that an axe has to walk a fine line of sharpness - if it is too sharp it will bind. This could be another 'problem' with the Gransfors, it comes too sharp.<br /><br />One could fix the geometry on the Gransfors by changing the grind. Shortening the convex bevel and making it a little steeper would make the axe suitable for hardwood. This would involve a fair bit of work considering that one would also have to hollow out the long convex shape on the previous softwood grind.<br /><br />But this tells us something. If we follow Cook's guidelines from The Ax Book then we have to say that the longer blade results in more shallow angles overall. To transfer from 30* at the edge down to 15* at the bevel, 5* at the hollow, then back up to 10* at the eye, is going to be less severe on an 8" axe than a 6.5" axe.<br /><br />Similarly, the transition will be more severe on an axe with a bevel at .5" than at .75". And this is what we have to ask, is the hardwood axe thinner at the the edge, along the bit, or not at all? Tradition tells us that hardwood axes are thicker and with more convexing, primarily for strength reasons, so either the hardwood axe is as thin or thinner than a softwood axe with much steeper angles, is the same thickness or slightly thicker with only slightly steeper angles, or is much thicker with the same angles.<br /><br />cont'dAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-57928161524934424972014-10-30T09:45:08.746-07:002014-10-30T09:45:08.746-07:00A common misconception is that since softwood axes...A common misconception is that since softwood axes are more convexed at the edge they are thicker, but convexing allows for strengthening of the thinner bit and edge. The European axes are thinner overall with a more convexed edge. The American axes are thicker overall with a straight/chisel-type grind with minor convexing.<br /><br />The problem with any axe is binding in wood. A thinner bit allows the axe to cut deeper, and given the different forces involved one can cut deeper into a softwood before binding occurs. In hardwoods you would not want to cut deeper into the wood because you would only cause more binding. Hence the increase in convexity, edge and bit width, head weight, and handle length. In Maine, 32" handles were common due to smaller trees, and in other areas 36" to 42", for both hardwood and softwood. Maine had smaller trees, and more softwoods, hence the similarity to European axes.<br /><br />Again, compare the Canadian, Maine, New England, and Connecticut patterns, what do you see? You see a progression to a shorter and wider bit. All things being equal an axe cannot be both shorter and thinner without destroying the angle of the grind. And an axe cannot be narrow and have the convexity along the width of the axe for a high centreline (keep in mind that the centreline is something of a misnomer, as it is the centre in terms of force, in the upper third of the axe). The shorter and wider bits of American axes developed due to the larger trees and the hardness of the hardwoods. They needed to be convexed along the width to compensate, or rather compromise, for the lack of convexity in length.<br /><br />In short, softwood axes prevented binding with a thinner bit through convexing at the edge (length). And hardwood axes prevented binding through convexing the bit (width). Binding has to do with the point of contact. The softwood/Scandi axe is thin and flat along the cheeks, and convexing the edge allows the point of contact to be minimal. The hardwood/American axe has a relatively flat grind (less convexed due to it having a shorter bit) so there had to be a way to prevent binding. The high centreline allows for the reduction in point of contact where the wedge shape would otherwise increase the point of contact. The softwood axe reduces contact at the edge where it convexes to the flats, and the hardwood axe reduces contact along the bit.<br /><br />In this thread you can see the more complex geometry involved in limiting the point of contact when a chisel-type grind is used for hardwoods.<br /><br />This is a very similar problem to scandi, convex, and rhomboid grinds in knives. A thinner blade can have a scandi grind and reduce contact effectively. A thicker blade requires convexing, hollowing, or a rhomboid grind.<br /><br />Much of this axe genealogy is also due to larger trees. Longer handles meant inaccuracy with a long bit. I never said the flatness of the axe made it European, rather the thinness, flat cheeks, and length of the bit. The American axe was forced by necessity to shift away from this thinness, flatness, and length. And this different shape allowed for the axe to cut greater width from a tree rather than depth. It's a tradeoff, and the wider and shorter axes compensated for not being able to cut as deeply while needing to cut much larger and harder trees efficiently.<br /><br />Convexity does not imply a thinner blade, the harder wood demands a shorter bit and an increased angle of the bit. Softwood and hardwood axes are just convexed in different ways. Generally the softwood axe is thinner, and the hardwood axe is thicker, heavier, and wider to compensate for lessened cutting depth.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-59153090888645020882014-08-31T13:50:09.967-07:002014-08-31T13:50:09.967-07:00Also-- at any rate, I would like to see the pictur...Also-- at any rate, I would like to see the pictures of axes on their own merit.Ricsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17939030644820054938noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-58851125950244226642014-08-31T13:48:35.357-07:002014-08-31T13:48:35.357-07:00What other traits make them European? By your logi...What other traits make them European? By your logic, a Mexican made Collin's axe is also "clearly" European because it has flat cheeks. A concession in manufacturer (or a product of ignorace regarding how an axe should be shaped) isn't the same thing as being intentional based on cultural traditions. My point is this-- a flat faced axe doesn't necessarily mean it's European in design or heritage.<br /><br />Aside from that trait, the smaller axes from GB like the small and large forest axe, as well as the hatchets, are just scaled down Rockaway pattern axes. I recall seeing a John King/Katco axe years back which was pretty much the same shape, and I suspect it was something along those lines that they were based off of.<br /><br />Here is a link to an older Marbles axe with the same sort of shape--<br /><br />http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDEyMDA=/z/fwUAAMXQgoBRf-CE/$T2eC16RHJGsFFMvQYuMFBRf-CDnwjw~~60_35.JPG<br /><br />You need to understand that in harder woods, deep penetration is less of a factor. Outside of extremely green, softer hardwoods (like Poplar, Soft Maple, White Birch) a given axe won't sink as deep in a harder piece of wood. A slightly thinner bit is a way to make up for that. Your assumption is that an axe will somehow sink just as deep if swung, say, into a well cured/dry Beech, Oak, or Hard Maple. That's not the reality of chopping-- more often than not cured wood resists penetration and the separation of fibers much more than green wood.<br /><br />If an axe penetrates a third again the depth extra in soft wood, that is going to more than offset the fact that the soft wood is less rigid than hardwood in way of pinching the axe.<br /><br />On the other hand, a thin axe swung into a green, rapid growing conifer like Fir or Pine, will penetrate deeply because the fibers separate easily and the wood is less rigid. This is more or less a fact-- swing an axe into a dry log of Ash, Beech, or even a very cured/dry and old conifer, and compare it to swinging the same axe into something green (anything, but especially conifers, or fast growing deciduous trees like poplar). I cut firewood by hand with crosscut saws and axes, so I know-- wood is easier to saw green than cured. And an ax bites deeper as well; whether it's "easier" depends on the axes shape.<br /><br />The other problem here is that Scandinavian axes specifically are quite thick in their profile. Not, come to think of it, unlike a Maine wedge pattern axe.<br /><br />See the new Roselli axes, as well as these two posts for pictures illustrating this;<br /><br />http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2012/06/finnish-axes-history-billnas.html<br /><br />http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/2012/06/finnish-axes-part-2-history-kellokoski.html<br /><br />The logging industry in Maine was for lumber, not including much hardwood. Birch, which is now worth more than Pine in some areas, were cut and filled in gullies and divets which Pine logs were hauled out over. Yet the quintessential Maine axe is almost synonymous with a wedge pattern to the point where the two patterns are nearly used interchangeably, or in tandem as in a "Maine wedge".<br /><br />Axes of the more typical American pattern were made and utilized further south. A Kelly, Collins, or Plumb axe, unless it were specifically made in the wedge pattern, is going to have a thinner, more hollowed bit. IF your theory were correct, the Maine pattern axes wouldn't resemble the wedge shape that they do (even other patterns retain a more continuous/less hollow shape when made by the Maine companies), and the wedge patterns would have been forged in the Carolinas, New Jersey, Virginia and Pennsylvania. The areas where the Maine companies probably sourced a good chunk of their hickory from to hang their axes intended to cut the lumber that made Maine famous in the logging world (Pine). Ricsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17939030644820054938noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-5790639073772904952014-08-04T13:12:45.501-07:002014-08-04T13:12:45.501-07:00Sorry, but the Gransfors axes are certainly Europe...Sorry, but the Gransfors axes are certainly European in design. You are discussing the single American Felling Axe design which was only recently created by Gransfors and is a cross between American patterns with some European influence remaining. This is clear in the shortened bit (American influence) and the relatively flat profile (European influence).<br /><br />An axe gets stuck due to both the hardness of the wood and the profile of the blade. The hard wood will bind as it is cut and essentially trap a flat, thin, and long head within the tension. This is my understanding of what the author here is saying as well, the Scandinavian axes never had such influence from American hardwoods. The American axe developed precisely because of the extreme forests, old wood and hard wood.<br /><br />Respectfully, I think you have it backwards, the thin blade and deep penetration is undesirable in hardwood axes because they bind too much as the greater force of the hardwood traps the thin and flat edge of European axes. The thick and high-centreline profile of American axes limits the friction introduced on the axe head by the tree's attempt at rebinding.<br /><br />If this is correct then you would see something of a middle path for Maine axes, not as high of a centreline and not as severe a transition from bevel to bit. We see this on Southern US axes quite a bit where the wood can be extremely hard. My understanding is that you need this shape to force out the wood and not bind the axe, wider chips for hardwood and deeper chips for softwood. Hence the change in geometry from longer and thinner to wider and thicker.<br /><br />Gransfors being specifically for softwood makes it a poor choice if one is cutting primarily hardwood in a cold climate. New Brunswick has quite a lot of hardwood as it is a transitional area between boreal and eastern woodlands. I think this is where the author lives, in an acadian forest where hardwood is nearly as common as softwood.<br /><br />I have some Nova Scotia and New Brunswick axes that I can post up to compare the shape to the Gransfors axes.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-78657389933217049202014-05-21T13:10:32.333-07:002014-05-21T13:10:32.333-07:00First of all, the current Gransfors offerings are ...First of all, the current Gransfors offerings are not traditional Swedish designs-- they are based off of Maine made axes from the golden era of manufacturing in that state. They are a "bit" changed if you'll pardon the pun-- if they make them the same way they wouldn't have sex appeal with the arm chair axeperts. Almost nonexistent mid blame hollow, and a short, wedge shape bit is a "splitting axe" according to most peoples criteria. Gransfors elongated the bit to some extent, added a lot of hollow on the smaller ones, and omitted the high centerline. <br /><br />An axe like the smaller Gransfors are really not well suited to soft wood/Coniferous trees in my opinion. The old Maine axes, which were used by lumberman to cut Pines, Spruces, etc. innumerable, were the opposite of these Gransfors "forest axes". No hollow behind the edge (or almost none) with an almost continual angle from the edge to the upper face/beginning of the eye walls, and a slight high centerline on the bit. <br /><br />The Gransfors hollow behind the bevel allows for over penetration, and that is a bad combination when you take into account the lack of high centerline. A wedge or 3/4 wedge doesn't have a tremendously curvaceous high centerline (like the keen cutter pictured) because it doesn't need one-- the wedge shaped, short bit doesn't have the tendency to sink so deep as to need one, compared to a more "American" pattern axes with a long bit with the mid blade hollow from edge to poll. <br /><br />Prolific penetration is probably less of an issue with hard wood, as a general rule, so a thinner bit (albeit still with a high centerline to result in a point contact in the axes kerf) would probably be more advantageous in that capacity. Bear in mind that chopping wood is not just severing wood fibers with the cutting action, the axe also needs to push apart as well as cut in the right ratio in order to make "cutting" (which, again, is not "just cutting") wood efficient. Ricsonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/17939030644820054938noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-69051969988653660632014-05-14T23:53:02.487-07:002014-05-14T23:53:02.487-07:00Very interesting research. I will say that my Gran...Very interesting research. I will say that my Gransfors axes are not flat, they are convex.<br /><br />I think where this research falls short is that you did not once mention the difference between softwood and hardwood felling, perhaps the most significant difference between degrees of convex axes. The heavily convex edge is certainly preferred for hardwoods, as we see in the Keen Kutter, which comes from a Missouri-based forge.<br /><br />This is a significant consideration, how many American axes are sharply convex due to the prevalence of hardwood in their region? Certainly the Scandinavian axes are developed primarily for softwood use, and it makes sense for anyone living in Boreal forest regions to prefer a less convex face. One can be presumed to be cutting more softwood. I suspect if you cut more hardwood then you would prefer the southern US axes.<br /><br />Of note as well is not the degree of convex necessarily but its position and balance. A convex face is not so good if it is in the centre, it should be at the two-thirds mark. Kreps sums this up well in Woodcraft:<br /><br />"One of these rules, and the most important, is to have the blade or bit thinnest on the "inside corner," which is the end of the blade nearest to the user. The hasty conclusion would be that if this corner were thinnest, the opposite side of the blade should be thickest. This is wrong. The thickest part of the blade should be two-thirds of the way across from the inside corner..."<br /><br />Given this I would say the Gransfors axes I have are correct (the Gransfors you have pictured is likely concave slightly because the forest axe is a limbing axe, not a general purpose axe), as are the Nova Scotia and New Brunswick axes I have, a cruiser and felling axe.<br /><br />But this is a very good writing nonetheless. It is a tradeoff dependent on the type of wood you will be cutting most. I suspect the Hultafors general purpose axe is the best all-around axe for boreal and Acadian forests. That will be my next axe.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-80377385425336032152014-01-06T22:59:09.748-08:002014-01-06T22:59:09.748-08:00Hi, I have seen two posts about Fiskers. I think b...Hi, I have seen two posts about Fiskers. I think before you buy try them out. I made a bit of a mistake getting one. X27. First of all I use Wetterlings from the 70's and needed a splitting axe in a rush as I had wood coming in from all over the place. Being a bit of a purist I had a bit of reservation about getting one. First of all I use the pendulum swing method of using an axe to split wood or chop into large trunks and consider my aim as accurate. With the Fiskers it is all over the place. New axe keep trying 3 months on still no luck. The axe wobbles on its way down. so side glance over/under shot are very common due to its small cutting face. So when you are at full power and you get a glance shot and the axe goes anyplace at very high speed. The adds on You Tube always show very large rounds of wood so you cannot miss. The only good thing I can say about this axe is that the head will not come off and the orange end has a rubberised coating and a hook on it. So when I saw Ashley splitting (with a twist) with an old axe I got the Wetterlings 4.5 pound felling axe out. My hits are spot on at speed and has an all round better feel. So I think the Fiskers maybe ok for some jobs but there is no substitute for hickory and a good feeling axe. Thanks for this blog site have enjoyed the read and information and please keep it up. Regards Duncan U.K.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08887744372299820705noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-9670275060995075502013-06-08T18:36:30.196-07:002013-06-08T18:36:30.196-07:00Over 30 years ago, I left the ranch and all the to...Over 30 years ago, I left the ranch and all the tools of the ranch, including two long-handled axes I'd used for hundreds of hours. One was a nice, single bitted felling axe and the other was a very nice double-bitted axe that was very difficult to sharpen. What you say about fore-aft convex shape of the blade is very important for "throwing" chips and for splitting especially hard wood. That concentration of wedging force above the centerline of the bit makes a very, very big difference. Thanks for your informed article.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-26836384421042114442013-04-02T20:10:23.518-07:002013-04-02T20:10:23.518-07:00plenty of old ones are still out there, many servi...plenty of old ones are still out there, many servicable with a little sharpening and maybe a new handle<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-69995197230818204942012-08-21T08:15:55.343-07:002012-08-21T08:15:55.343-07:00Does anyone know of any name brands sold today tha...Does anyone know of any name brands sold today that resemble the old axes for geometry? It would be nice to find a modern axe that performs like the old ones do.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-47886784016744139522012-05-08T17:17:35.145-07:002012-05-08T17:17:35.145-07:00Thank you for your blog posts.
I do still have one...Thank you for your blog posts.<br />I do still have one burning question though. I've come across many people online commenting that the Fiskars splitting axes (~4lb head weight for the x25,x27, though the SS model is heavier) are far superior to other splitting tools due to being much lighter and yet with the splitting power of an 8lb maul.<br />If you have had the opportunity to use and examine a Fiscars splitting axe (x25, x27 or SS/SuperSplitter models), then my question for you is what features of it's head geometry or overall design give it its' reputably superior splitting power?<br />I haven't yet found one locally in my country to examine or use yet, but from pictures I've seen, it doesn't seem to use a convex head, which based on your article would surprise me given it's reputation among many people as the superior splitting tool of our time. It does have a non-stick coating of some kind, and perhaps that substitutes.Owennoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-41241900510145068352012-05-02T12:08:53.337-07:002012-05-02T12:08:53.337-07:00What! th' vidos have a blog? you guys better w...What! th' vidos have a blog? you guys better watch out or you'll find yourselves in th' middle of a super highway wonderin where that dirt road went.<br />But seriously, you continue to inspire me... ~ricoLighthouse Familyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01009991527581720124noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-4046379445425280992012-03-23T14:38:01.169-07:002012-03-23T14:38:01.169-07:00Hi Peter, Thanks for that. I just bought at aucti...Hi Peter, Thanks for that. I just bought at auction two heads, a True Test (USA) and a Sandvik 4lb. I was trying to learn why they have such a different shape.. and now I know.<br /><br /> The Kelly True Tests are a common old axe here in NZ and are often Canadian made "Dandenong" model which I presume relates to Australia. The European axes are much less common until recently when the high price models started appearing as an alternative to the Chinese versions which are so cheap.<br /> I agree with your sub theme of homesteading/survival and the axe as a vital tool. Which is why I collect old axe heads whenever I see them. I figure I can always make a handle.. but I will never be able to make an axe with the quality steel found in the old Kellys and Plumbs.Davidnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-84062814952093134052012-01-30T09:51:03.083-08:002012-01-30T09:51:03.083-08:00A response to your question is given in the
1/30/...A response to your question is given in the <br />1/30/12 post titled "Splitting Mauls".Peter Vidohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13443265056422774632noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-59893180264133525432012-01-25T09:07:23.401-08:002012-01-25T09:07:23.401-08:00Very informative, I love going to bed a little bit...Very informative, I love going to bed a little bit more learned than when I woke up! I've recently become a student of the edge and am happy to have found others like yourself lighting the way. To that end, I'm refining my wood splitting tools. I've been using a crapy, walmart True Temper 8lb maul to giter done. I ground the bit for a better (I think) edge profile and it works okay, but still by no means easy on tough Eucalyptus. The steel's not great though and often rolls under the stress. Just recently I got a Stihl splitting ax to experiment with and two vintage heads on ebay, Keen Kutter and Plumb (which I still need to haft). So what 8lb maul (and/or ax) would you recommend for splitting?JALewishttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07459861434870637120noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-45981670762381614722011-11-02T08:26:50.038-07:002011-11-02T08:26:50.038-07:00Great article. Thoroughly enjoyed the in-depth tre...Great article. Thoroughly enjoyed the in-depth treatment of this.cooperhillhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16225570314335442622noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-87907436401074027322011-09-23T06:41:20.710-07:002011-09-23T06:41:20.710-07:00Mr Vido is THE scythe person of the Americas (at l...Mr Vido is THE scythe person of the Americas (at least). His writing on axes is no less valuable. His consideration of peak oil is sound. Thank you Mr Vido!<br /><br />Please write more on axes, scythes, etc!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-28196710541020796922011-08-29T15:42:41.980-07:002011-08-29T15:42:41.980-07:00I have just discovere your blog and am now followi...I have just discovere your blog and am now following. Best and most informative of all the blogs I am following.Hawkeye The Noohttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11659518445237622889noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-21527391118238004512011-06-04T16:00:27.101-07:002011-06-04T16:00:27.101-07:00Thanks once again for helping me to understand one...Thanks once again for helping me to understand one of my most important tools on the homestead.<br /><br />Do you have any plans to post to your other blog? The blogname alone makes it sound interesting and useful.<br /><br />I'm sitting here on a Saturday afternoon/evening reading scytheconnection articles as I get ready for my first hay-making attempt, thanks once more for offering a helping hand to us newcomers...Northern Farmerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08483495225114621168noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8563475851837975463.post-21209349774085582932011-05-24T21:08:11.588-07:002011-05-24T21:08:11.588-07:00Peter,your right on the mark about high centre lin...Peter,your right on the mark about high centre lines.A flat face is not much value when serious chopping and felling is to be done and will stick all day long.A high centre line just forward of the middle of the face really helps move the chips and release the axe . LAWRENCELAWRENCEnoreply@blogger.com